Friday, December 30, 2011

☆★ How to prevent nails from lifting★☆

The worst thing about having beautiful nails is : lifting.

Lifting means that acrylic "lifts" off of your natural nail, leaving behind a visible line or spot where air can come under.

Not only does it look bad, but it can also be a breeding place for bacteria.

To prevent lifting, you have to start out with these steps:

Be hygienic 
Sanitize all your implements and utilities.
Work in a clean environment (dust, dirt and moisture is a big NO NO)
What ever you do, do not eat or smoke while you are doing nails
(note: you are working with flammable liquids, smoking while working can set the place on fire, causing serious damage and burns)
nicotine or crumbs can stay behind on your nail plate causing lifting

If you have serious lifting problems I do not recommend washing your hands (or your clients' hands if they have lifting problems)
your nails are porous and contact with water will cause your nails to suck up the water
(when you take a shower/bath or do dishes you notice that your nails or weak and have changed its appearance)

I know that is not very hygienic but you sure need to use a sanitizer in this case
it contains alcohol and it will evaporate


A good preparation is the key to have a long lasting set of nails

I do not recommend using cuticle removers. Those are products that dissolve the cuticle making it easier to push back and remove.
Cuticle remover can be sucked up by the nail as it is 99% of the time a liquid substance.
liquid = moisture = lifting

What I do to remove the cuticle is, spray nails lightly with a dehydrator (contains isopropyl alcohol  and it will evaporate)
gently but sure push back the cuticle with a cuticle pusher in a circular motion, as this is easier and not as painful to some people
(remember tools don't hurt people, people hurt people)
(but some people can not stand that their cuticles are being pushed back and find it "painful")

with the other end of the cuticle pusher, "scrape" off the loose cuticle
If needed clip away loose and excessive cuticle with cuticle nippers.

Whether you are doing an infill/rebalance/etc or a new set,
take away the shine of the natural nail with a SOFT nail file.
DO NOT overfile the nail, because that may weaken the nail and even worse, it can damage your nail, which in turns can cause lifting as well.
Some nailtechs don't take away the shine of the nail, that is up to them.
I have been taught that the natural nail needs tiny "scratches" for the acrylic to adhere better/best to the nail plate.
I use a nail file with a 100/180 grit and I use the 180 site of an OLD DISINFECTED  file.
An old file is so much softer than a new one.
(the higher the number on your file, the softer it is)

Make sure to go around the cuticle area and that there are no shiny spots left.

Next, remove the dust. I use a kabuki brush.

Then I take a cotton wipe and IBD prep and dehydrate the nail plate.
It takes away the oils and any dust that has left behind.
This will dry within a couple of seconds.

Do you need a dehydrator? No you don't but I prefer to use it.

As far as primer goes, there are a lot on the market.
Acid free, non-acid and acid.

I use NSI superbond.
It is an acid based primer so caution is needed!
(note: caution is needed with any chemical)

After you dehydrated the nails, take your primer and open the bottle.
Take out the brush and DRAIN the excess primer on a paper towel.

Too much primer is not good. Draining the application brush will have just enough primer on it for 5 nails.
If doing a new set, put primer all over the NATURAL nail and not on nailtips (plastic)
If doing an infill, only primer on the new nail growth (natural nail).
If you put primer on acrylic or gel, it can cause yellowing, and we don't want that.

When the first coat has dried (NSI superbond dries to a chalky finish) I apply primer right before I apply my acrylic, each nail at a time.
NOTE : If you prefer or if needed, you can use a total of 3 coats of primer.
Don't let the primer touch your skin.


Now that you have prepped your nails, it is time for the application of acrylic (or gel)
Your pearls cannot be too wet or they'll flow right into the sidewalls and cuticle area.
The perfect pearl should be bumpy when you pick it up, and should become smooth when placed on the nail.

With the body of the brush, pat down your pearl to the desired shape and thickness.
Using the tips of the brush as a barrier, prevent acrylic from running into the sidewalls and cuticle.
If acrylic runs in the cuticle or sidewalls and it stays there it will cause lifting.
Simply use the tip of your brush and wipe the acrylic away if it ran into that area before it dries.

When you are working clean and precise you don't have a lot of filing to do.
When filing, file the acrylic flush to the natural nail so that there aren't any visible gaps and bumps.
It should seem as if the acrylic is a part of your own nail.

After filing remove dust, this time you may wash your hands, but don't spend too much time in the water.

Whether you buff the nail to a shiny finish or use a UV sealer, that is up to you. I prefer using a  UV sealer (NSI Glaze 'n Go)
Do not put any UV sealer on natural nails, it is designed to be used on artificial nails only.

NOTE: Don't ever touch your natural nail wit your fingers after prepping. Oils and dirt/dust will transfer to the nail plate and you will undo anything what you have done.

 Other causes

When you know your prep and application is not the problem that is causing lifting.
you must be aware of some other causes.

*Don't use old or bad products (dust builds up and contaminates your product)

*use quality brands or products. Cheap in this case does not mean better.
And sometimes cheap products from ebay or the internet contains MMA, which is a hazardous chemical, and is not to be used for nails! If you buy a kit and it doesn't come with a list of ingredients, DO NOT buy it.
Better safe than sorry...

*Medical causes :
Heart problems, diabetic, bacteria, medication, an allergy for the products... all these can cause lifting

Sometimes lifting occurs by fault of the client:
*using nails as a tool
*ticking your nails on a table
*not wearing any gloves while doing household chores: gardening, using chemicals for cleaning,...
*Doing dishes or been in the water right before coming in for having their nails done
(Always mention to clients that they have to keep their nails dry at least 2 hours before coming in)
*Being too long in the water (bathing, shower, dishes, washing hands,...) 
If all these steps fail to succeed, and you have done all you could,
it can simply be genetic.
*not eating healthy

*nails that are too long (sometimes when nails are too long, it tends to lift, because you bump into things)
These are my personal experiences and what I have learned over the past couple of years.
You learn by trial and error, don't give up if you don't succeed.
All the causes above may not apply to you or your clients, but sure is something to think about.
I am not responsible for any damage you do to your or your client's nails.
Also note that everybody has different methods, you just have to find one that suits your likings.


  1. Awesome information and I wonder if you agree for translating this into Dutch for my website?

  2. @LifesBubble natuurlijk mag je hem vertalen, maar wil je dan credit geven? geef me ook even je link van je website x

  3. I agree. Now I know more about lifting:) thank you. What if clients use their cell phones while doing their nails, can that cause lifting?

  4. @isamar It does not directly cause lifting, unless they be touching their skin, nails or other things such as towel and what not :)

  5. One more question :) what nail glue do you recommend for nail tips? I have trouble with them staying glued. Thanks for answering my questions. :)

  6. @isamar i use normal nail glue, the brush on kind. I have the brand "jean marin"

    1. hi cindy! question for you-can you use the no lift primer for doing uv gel nails? I believe the website said yes but would bonder still be needed?? and bonder isn't that just another word for dehydrator? thanks xo I love this blog soo much you are soo thorough!

  7. this is awesome! x thank you x x x

  8. awesome article....thanks soooo much!! Im a nail tech as well and I was also told by my boss that with some people you cant avoid lifting because there are certain people that just have naturally very oily nail beds :)So if everything is done right and there is still lifting then that could be the culprit!

  9. That is a perfect way to explain things... my teacher Carol would be impressed by this article!! It was very useful to brush up these notions GOOD JOB girl!!! :*

  10. Hey there i have the problem of my middels fingers lifting all the time. I suffer from contact deramitis from being a hairdresser so when my hand get dry i tend to itch them (sometimes alot). ive noticed the dominant fingers i itch with are my middle ones. Could this possibly be another reason that lifting could occour? with the pressure? please help :)

    1. that could be possible indeed. perhaps what you could try is, use 1 extra coat of primer on those two nails.
      And see if it gets better when the dermatitis goes away, and gets worse when it comes back
      For your fingers, I suggest using a good moisturizing and/or using gloves when you work with products.


  11. this is a fantastic article. I am recently Qualified and was only told a few reasons as to why lifting occurs, so thank you I am always wanting to learn more. I do my sister and her daughters nails and they suffer from excessive sweating on their hands and I find using a cotton glove on the left hand ( the hand that holds the finger)helps immensely. for annonymous may 7th i get the same thingg and have found a silicon hand cream works amazingly to stop your hands from getting too dry and itchy

  12. brilliant article, thk you! I have a couple of clients that consistantly suffer lifting, will def look into the kepping their nails dry before their service. good one!

  13. I might seem like an alien but jus started doing my nails so.. dehydrator and primer are these two the same???? and can I use the Gelish PH as dehydrator for my extensions??? and one more thing what is the right way to use the IBD bonder???

    1. dehydrator is to remove any oils from he nail plate (it dehydrates) and primer primes the nails to make them ready for application
      Primer is used after dehydrator.
      Gelish PH is a dehydrator from what I read on the internet.
      I used a tiny drop of IBD bonder and brush that on the nail with a clean brush and let that cure for a minute

  14. This is awesome!!! Im in beauty school and no one ever explains this to us!!

  15. I think I now know why their lifting...they would lift by the second day...

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  19. Thank you' I have seen people put the acrylic on when the primer is wet..... do you let it dry first or apply when wet?

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  34. Hi I got acrylic French tips 5 days ago and they started lifting on the sides of the nails after only a few days. Have had these once a few years ago for two weeks and this did not happen. The guy who did my nails didn't do anything to my nails to prep them except use some kind of machine thing to sands down my nails (sorry for lack of better explanation). Should I go back and ask them to fix my nails?

    1. if he didn't do a proper prep, then I suggest you go back and tell him.

      Nails can't stay nice without a good preperation.
      Same goes with painting walls. no good prep and the paint will peel.

      Using a drill to sand down your nails? wow, I don't like that :/

    2. Ok thank you for replying and thanks for the good info I will be going back today and I'll insist he fix them free of charge, then I will be asking around for a new salon who knows what they are doing!!

  35. Hi just wanted to update you and get a little more feed back.. I posted earlier about my nails lifting after only a few days. I went back to the salon who did them and they basically said that my nails are oily and my cuticles are hard to work around. Is this something I should tell my next nail tech? They also"fixed" them free of charge but all he seemed to do was fill them. I can actually still see where the lifted areas are underneath the new layer of acrylic..

    1. nice of them to "fix" them. but yeah, filling them up and still see the lifted acrylic... no no no
      Yes look for a new nail tech and tell them what happened.
      it could be indeed that you have oily nails and hard to work with around the cuticle,but if the next one is a good one, she will be able to work with it and explain to you why it can start lifting after a couple days.

      If I get new people, I always tell them that I don't know how the gel/acrylic will work on their nails. So they know what to expect

  36. Thanks again for replying, I will be looking for a new nail tech!

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  80. i have a question do you need an acid based nail primer such as nsi superbond when doing gel nails.....if so does this damage your natural nails?

  81. I use a spray cleansing nail spray, bonder, ph balance, and primer is that to much to use and my nails lift within a day :/

  82. After the first superbond has dried do you apply your acrylic to wet second coat of superbond?

  83. I am doing a friends nails (gel) and i do not have any dehydrator on hand and have herd that pure acetone (the brand I have is onyx professional, maximum strength) will work just fine, is this a suitable substitute until my order makes it to my house?

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  85. Dankuwel voor de informatie!

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  87. Is young nails products causing my lifting

  88. Where do u get these nsi products u talk about