Nails for beginners - Prep

Preparation is key.
You can have a perfect application, but without the prep, your set of nails is doomed to fail.

A good preparation is necessary to minimize lifting and infection.

Always start clean.
That means your implements, your work area and your and your clients' hands should be disinfected.
You can disinfect your tools several ways:
*using alcohol
*bathing in antiseptic
*bullet sterilizer
...
For your work area, you should always use a clean towels and clean tissue/paper towel.
Depending on the surface of your work area, you can also disinfect the table by simply spraying alcohol or antiseptic on it and wiping it away with a paper towel.

You can sanitize your own hands by washing them thoroughly and using an antiseptic spray.
Your clients' nails should not touch water or oils at least 2 hours prior to application.
The nail will suck up some of that moisture and might cause lifting.
Note that this is my personal opinion.

What I like to do is spray her hands with IBD prep.
This is an anti-fungal and anti-bacterial agent and also dehydrates the nails.

So when everything is nice and clean you can start with prepping the nails.


This prep video also applies for a new set.
Both acrylic and gel.

mermaid nails and toes

Mermaids have always been one of my favorite mystical creatures. They were always described as mesmerizing, long hair, beautiful tails and their scales would shine in the moonlight.

Now I love bling and I love mermaids so lets do some nails!

Turquoise and purple are the main colors I am working with on the fingernails.

One the fingernails, the old design has been removed and the nails are prepped.

I picked up a ball of NSI attraction totally clear and I dipped it in the Turquoise hexagons.

I placed that ball on the nail and I start working with it to distribute the product from side to side and fading it up towards the cuticles.

When it is time to encapsulate, I did another coat of primer (NSI superbond) and picked up a ball of NSI totally clear and placed it at the cuticle area, patting the product into place, stroking it toward the free edge.

I placed another small ball at the free edge and feathered it up.

This step was the same for all 10 nails.

After filing and buffing, I let my friend wash her hands to remove all the chemical residue.

I brushed on a bit of NSI Glaze 'n Go on the ringfinger and I placed down some Turquoise hexagons in a half circle at the cuticle to give it that extra touch. Let it cure for a couple seconds to lock it in place.

Finish all the nails off with a nice coat of Glaze 'n go, cure for 3 minutes and you are done.

Now for the toes, I used gel and nail polish. Less hassle, but the same result.

Nails are prepped with a coat of IBD natural nail primer.

With a gel brush and IBD builder gel clear I brushed on a thin layer on all 5 toenails, went around the cuticles with a rosewood stick and let it cure for 3 minutes.

This gel layer acts as a super duper long lasting base layer, and not as strength. Toenails generally don't need strength, but the nail polish tend to not last that long.

So instead of a nail polish base coat, I used gel.

After curing, I cleansed the nails with none acetone nail polish remover.

I painted the toenails with China Glaze - 553 Sexy in the city.

Let that dry for a bit and went in with a second coat.

With an old nail polish brush I picked up some of the nail art dust mixer.

This dust mixer a lot more liquid than clear nail polish, therefor making it a lot easier to pick up nail art and blend it all out before it dries out, making it smooth and even.

So with the nail polish brush I dipped in the hexagons and brushed it on the nails, fading it up.

I added more when needed.

I finished off with Orly glosser.

These toenails lasted for 7-ish weeks before they were too long and needed to be redone.

Gel as a base layer makes your nailpolish :

*last longer

*stay on without chipping

*dry a lot faster

*don't stain the nails

Dazzling Emeralds

Prior to the video I already removed the old design and prepped the nails with NSI superbond. Superbond is a great primer for those who suffer from lifting, myself and my mother included. Since I started using this, I rarely have lifting, and the lifting on my mums nails are not as severe as they used to be.

(The reason of our lifting problems is genetic, also very thin natural nails)

First off I start by brushing on a thin coat of IBD builder gel in clear and let that cure for 2 minutes.

This is my base layer.

vivalanails was so kind to send me this emerald glitter, crushed shells and dazzling butterflies.

Thank you.

I mixed some emerald glitter with gel and with a gel brush, I brushed on some glitter to give it a gradient look. With a dotting tool I placed more glitter on the free edge to add more coverage.

With a rosewood stick I picked up the crushed shell and placed that randomly on the uncured gel.

The reason I did not cure the gel is : I now can push the crushed shell in the gel. If I were to cure the gel and then add the crushed shells, it would be on top of the nail, and that makes it unnecessary thick.

I let this cure for 2 minutes.

On the ringfinger I brushed on a thin coat of IBD builder gel clear and added 3 dazzling butterflies, and let that cure for 30-ish seconds, just long enough to lock them in place.

Then I brushed on the final coat of gel and filled the nail up with strings. These will land on the nails, exactly where I want them to be, and it will merge together leaving a smooth area.

I let this layer cure for at least 3 minutes, to make sure everything is hardened.

With a lint free wipe and none acetone nail polish remover, I removed the tacky layer and reshaped the free edge and sidewalls.

Lastly I put on some clear nailpolish, this one is Glosser from Orly, just to give it that bit extra shine.

I hope you like this design.

3D Flowers

This time I have the honor to use a glitter mix from Melbeautynails called "Mardi Gra"

It's a gorgeous gold and purple mix with all sorts of colored hexagons.

Prior to the video, I removed the old design and already prepped the nails.

First, I start off by removing any excess dust and oils from the nails with Nail pure plus and a lint free wipe.

With the "Mardi Gra" glitter mix (mixed with clear acrylic), I put a ball at the free edge, spread it from side to side and with the flags of the brush, I fade the glitter up towards the middle.

I am using a Nr. 6 acrylic brush.

Next I put on NSI superbond primer and with a Nr. 8 acrylic brush, I picked up a ball of NSI totally clear and placed that at the cuticle area, leaving a space between the acrylic and the cuticle.

I pat the ball from side to side and swipe it down towards the free edge.

If you need more acrylic, you can always add an extra ball.

It's better to add more than to take away.

This is the same for all 10 nails.

After shaping and filing, I let my friend wash her hands to get rid of any excess chemicals on her skin and dust from the nails.

For the 3D flowers, I put some pure acetone in the monomer to let the acrylic dry a whole lot faster.

(This is so your ball of acrylic won't get runny/too wet)

I think I use 40/60 acetone/monomer.

I am using a Nr. 2 acrylic brush, which tip comes together to a point.

Picking up small balls of acrylic can be tricky, so make sure to have a little practice.

I place a tiny ball of NSI radiant white on the nail.

I put my brush in front of a ball and start pushing my brush down to whichever side I want my petal to be. when you lift your brush and you petal starts to form a ball again, this means you have to wait a couple more seconds, because it's too wet.

You know when your ball is ready when it starts to get dull.

Depending on your Acetone/monomer ratio, it takes longer or faster to dry.

When I get 3 petals, I place a ball of acrylic in the middle immediately put a Swarovski crystal on top and pushed it in. The color is in "aurora borealis" (AB)

If you need to fix the appearance of the centerpiece, do so.

I created flower petals on each nail.

To finish off the nail, I put a coat of NSI Glaze 'n go on the nails (NOT on the petals)

and let that cure for 3 minutes.

And last but not least I massaged the cuticles with cuticle oil.

I really love this design, Thank you Mel for sending me this glitter mix.

I hope you liked this tutorial and thank you for reading/watching

x

Funky Leopard Print

Old design has already been removed. 

In the video I start off by dehydrating the nails with Nail Pure Plus, this also removes any excess dust and oils.

With NSI superbond, I primed the new nail growth.

With IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I apply a thin coat of gel and let that cure for 2 minutes.

With the same gel and brush, I apply a thin coat from the middle of the nail towards the free edge.

This is so that our glitters will stick.

With a clean brush (a brush that is wiped off) I pick up the bright green glitter and start patting that on the free edge, fading it up towards the top. And I let that cure for 2 minutes.

I did this to all 10 nails.

Once every nail has glitter and has been cured (to lock the glitter in place) I am brushing on a thin coat of that same gel, so that we have a somewhat smoother surface for our nailpolish/paint to go on.

I let that cure for 2 minutes.

Then I remove the tacky layer to do the leopard print.

If I were to leave on the tacky layer, my design would slip off if I brushed over it with a gel brush.

With China Glaze's "pool party" and a dotting tool, I start adding random spots to the nails

With Oumaxi's black acrylic paint and a dotting tool, I did the outline of the leopard print.

When all that was dry (about 5 minutes to be sure) I Brushed on my final layer of gel and filled it up with strings of gel to create strength and thickness. I let that cure for 3 minutes.

When all 10 are done, I removed the tacky layer, shaped the sidewalls and free edge, put on some Orly Glosser (top coat), let that dry and finally added some cuticle oil and rubbed that in.

This design can easily be done with acrylic and even nail polish :)

I hope you enjoyed this design and stay tuned for many more to come

x

Enchanted Forest

I have already removed the previous design and prepped the nails prior to this video.

So let's get started.

In the video I start off by spraying the fingernails with IBD prep and I wipe it off with a lint free wipe. This removes any excess dust and oils from the nailplate to promote better bonding.

With NSI superbond primer, I prime the new nail growth.

Then I start forming the free edge with a silver mix that contains silver stars.

(I did not make it myself, I got it as a gift)

Above that silver, I place a very bright green color and form the smile line, fading the green down.

While the acrylic is still wet, I place a few iridescent stars on the green.

Then I go in with a second coat of NSI superbond primer, again, on the new nail growth only.

With NSI attraction Liquid and totally clear powder, I place a ball right behind the smile line, pat it from side to side and fade it down.

I put another ball right above the previous one and did the same.

To make sure the design on the free edge is completely encapsulated, I placed a small ball on the free edge as well, patted that from side to side and faded it up.

I did this to all 10 nails.

When all 10 were dry, I filed and shaped the nails how ever I wanted it, 

let my friend wash her hands (to get rid of any dust) and put some stamps on ringfinger and thumb.

With NSI Glaze 'n Go, I gave the nails a high gloss finish. This has to be cured for 2-3 minutes.

With cuticle oil, I conditioned the cuticles and last minute we decided to add a dangle.

Because it was late at night and the sun was set, I couldn't really take great picture or make a color-accurate end result.

But I did my best to find the best lighting available, and you can clearly see the difference.

I hope you enjoyed my little tutorial.

Summer Sorbet

Summer is coming!

When I think of summer I think of sorbet (sherbet for some?)

Allright, lets get it cracking.

After 5 and a half weeks, it's time for a new design.

In the video I start off by sanitizing and pushing back the cuticles.

She has much cuticles growth so I cut that off.

With an electric drill and a coarse drill bit, I drilled off the old design.

Being careful because a coarse drill bit is very sharp.

After that I went over it with a 100/180 file (used 180) to smooth out any bumps and also to remove the shine from natural nails. And I also reshaped and shortened the nails.

With IBD prep and a lint free wipe, I took away any left over dust and that also dehydrates.

With IBD natural nail primer, I primed the nails.

With IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I brushed on a thin coat and let that cure for 2 minutes.

On the free edge, I brush on a thin coat of IBD builder gel clear and start patting on the neon yellow glitter.

Then I pat on hot pink and formed a smile line, letting that cure for 2 minutes.

Camera made the colors less vibrant, and dull looking.

(pictures are true color)

Then I brushed on a thin coat of IBD builder gel clear and started filling up the nail with strings of gel.

Letting that cure for 3 minutes to make sure everything is hardened.

It is important to do each nail separately (one nails, cure, other nail, cure,...)

Or else the gel will run off.

When all 10 are done, I removed the tacky layer with none acetone and a lint free wipe.

With the soft side of a 100/180 file I file the sidewalls and free edge.

I did a stamp on ringfinger and thumb.

With a final coat of gel (only on ringfinger and thumb) I seal in the design, letting that cure for 2-3 minutes. 

I normally would have used regular nailpolish to seal in the design, but this person comes in contact with erosive products from time to time.

Removed tacky layer, applied topcoat and cuticle oil.

Took some pictures and I'm done.

How to do nails on a nailbiter

Why do people bite their nails?

Are they nervous?

Are they scared?

Is it a habit or does it taste good?

All I know is, it doesn't look nice.

Woman's nails are our business card and also shows how well we take care after ourselves.

We can enhance the way our nails look, even with a simple french look.

Whether you use tips, a form or on their own nails, that is up to you and your client.

I am going to do gel nails on her own natural nails, because she asked for it.

If I was to elongate her nails, I would have personally used her own skin as a form.

(her skin is slightly higher than her nails, so putting a form "underneath" her nail won't work, and a tip is too big)

As always start with sanitizing and prep

In the video, I sprayed her hands with IBD prep, this sanitizes her fingers.

I pushed back her cuticles and trimmed off the excess.

(nail biters are more likely to have a larger cuticle growth)

With a 100/180 grit file, I used the 180 side to take away the shine of the natural nail.

When all 10 are done, I removed the dust with a kabuki brush, sprayed her nails with IBD prep and wiped her nails with a lint free wipe. This removes any excess dust and oils and also dehydrates.

In the video I only showed one coat of NSI superbond primer, but I applied 2 coats to promote optimal bonding.

Then with IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I brushed on a thin coat.

Nail biters have super tiny nailbeds, so it is best not to use a large brush.

With a rosewood stick I went around the cuticle and sidewalls.

I let that cure for 2 minutes.

With a dotting tool and Jean Marin builder gel white, I start forming her free edge.

I only take a small amount of gel on the dotter and add more when it is needed.

We can't go too thick or else the nail will look unnatural when it is finished.

Don't worry if you touch her skin with gel, just clean it with a rosewood stick.

It is inevitable to make a mess.

Remember: The end result is what counts.

Keep the free edge thin, do not go over 1/3 of the nail or else it won't look good.

(1/3 white, 2/3pink)

With a clean gel brush I cleaned up the smile line and let that cure for 2 minutes.

After all 10 are done, I brushed on a thin layer of IBD builder gel clear with a clean gel brush.

Then with short strings of gel, I build up the nail to get an even and smooth surface.

I went around the cuticle and side walls with a rosewood stick and let that cure for 3 minutes.

When all 10 are done, I removed the tacky layer with non-acetone nailpolish remover and a lint free wipe.

With my file I clean up the sidewalls and free edge.

Removed dust and applied Orly Glosser

(high gloss nail polish)

With cuticle oil, I pampered the cuticles.

Took some pictures and finish!

FAQs

Here are some of the most frequently asked question

Will be updated frequently when new questions are asked.

What products do you use?

IBD prep

NSI prep dx

NSI superbond primer

IBD builder gel clear, extreme blush gel, extreme white gel

NSI attraction liquid and powders

NSI Glaze 'n go

none acetone nailpolish remover 

Orly Glosser

Cuticle oil (any brand)

What tools do you use?

cuticle pusher

cuticle nipper

rosewood stick

100/180 file Bell'ure

Kabuki brush

What size brush do you use?

For gel a 5mm square gel brush from Oronails and ebay

For acrylic N.6 oval Kolinsky brush from NailCreation

For 3D N.4 or N.2 from  BornPrettyStore

Where do you get your gel/acrylic?

Gel: from my local nailstore Oronails

Acrylic: from Oronails

Glitter mixes : self made

What is that tape you put around your fingers and why?

That is 3M Coban 

I use it to protect my fingers and nails from scratches.

I get it at the pharmacist.

Did you go to school to learn how to do nails?

Yes I went to school, but no I did not learn anything new. 90 % I am self taught

Do you have a license?

Yes, I have 3

Manicure, nail styling and nail design

How long does gel needs to be cured?

Most of the time, it says on the container.

But for thin coats I cure for 2 minutes under a uv light

And the final coat I let cure for at least 3 minutes.

LED lamps need other curing times but do not work with all gel types. I have no experience with that.

Do I need to use primer/bonder?
If you don't NEED primer, you don't have to use it. But some people have experienced lifting if they don't use it. Same goes with bonder.

What UV topcoat do you use?

I use Glaze 'n Go from NSI

Where did you get your UV lamp?

I got it from ebay.

I get a lot of lifting, what am I doing wrong/ Do you have some advice?

I posted a huge post on this issue, feel free to check it out.

Click Here

Why do you move your brush(gel) as if you are scribbling?/

What are the strings of gel for?

I do this to fill in the nail, to make the surface smooth and even and for adding strength and thickness.

What tool do you use to put on the white gel on the nail?

That's a dotting tool or an embossing tool.

Where did you get your drill bit?

I got it from BornPrettyStore and it is a coarse bit with a rounded top

Do you use tips or forms to extend the nails?

Depending on the shape and length of the natural nail.

If the nailbed is very short, I use forms because tips are too big and would take too much space from the nail bed.

Also if the natural curve is too curvy, I use forms because tips would not fit and lift.

Where are you from? Do you have a salon?

I am from Belgium, I do not have a salon.

What kind of UV lamp do you use? And why?

I use a 36 watt UV lamp (4x9 watt)

For a full set of gel nails, I recommend using a 36 watt lamp so that all the nails have cured equally and evenly.

9 watt lamps tend to not cure all the way on a full set (unless you leave it in the light for ... minutes, but that is crazy work.)

If you want a nail to be fully and completely cured, UV light must come from all possible sides,

from the top and from the sides(also from underneath, that's why most lamps have a mirrored bottom )

9 watt is okay for UV topcoat if you leave it under the lamp long enough.

Where did you get your image plates

The round ones I got from ebay and are by the brand "kand beauty"

The Konad ones(also round) are from a german website

The octagon ones are from BornPrettyStore

What program do you use to edit your video?

I use iMovie 11, the program came with my computer.

What kind of drill do you use and where did you get it?

Picture from google

This is the drill that I use and I got it from an ebay seller, but he closed his account, it is from the brand

"Super Nail Center"

Where do you get your glitters?

craft shops, hobby store, kids section, nail stores and this ebay seller

What camera do you use for pictures/filming?

I use a Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ150 for both filming and pictures.

Keep checking for updates...

Gel on ToeNails

My mom bumped her toe pretty hard to something, and she lost a corner of her nail and it bled a bit. a week later when it was quite healed I decided to put some gel on because the weather is getting better.

So prior to the video I already prepped the nails (pushed back cuticles and took away the shine of the natural nails.

I sprayed her toes with IBD prep and went over it with a lint free wipe to get rid of any excess dust and oils.

With IBD natural nail primer, I primed her toenails.

With IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I brushed on the first layer of gel, and started to reconstruct a free edge for her big toe,  went around the cuticle with a rosewood stick and let that cure for 2 minutes.

The rest of the toes go just like normal, a thin coat of IBD builder clear and cure for 2 minutes.

With a dotting tool, I picked up some white gel and started for forming the smile line and free edge.

With a clean gel brush, I cleaned up the smile line and let that cure for 2 minutes.

For the last layer of gel, I brushed on a thin layer of IBD builder gel in clear, and filled the nail up with strings of gel, and in a circular motion, letting the gel on the brush touch the gel on the toe, I spread out the gel evenly.

On the toes, you don't need a thick layer.

I let that last layer cure for 3 minutes.

When all the toenails are done, I removed the sticky layer with nail polish remover and a lint free wipe, and filed the sidewalls and free edge.

I did some nail art on her big toe, it's a rose done with stamping polish, an image plate and a stamper.

Then I applied a coat of UV nail polish (not cured in the lamp) to prevent the nails from yellowing.

Last but not least, I applied some cuticle oil and rubbed that in, took some pictures and done .

Nicki Minaj Nail Art

My lovely mom never really went all out with her nails, but lately I can convince her to go a bit more wild and colorful.

And I sure do take advantage of that.

In the videoI start off by pushing back her cuticles for then to remove her old design with a drill and file. I also took away the shine of the natural nail.

When all 10 are done, I dust off the nails and hands. With a nailwipe and IBD prep I dehydrate the nails and that also removes any excess dust and oils.

Then I primed the nails with NSI superbond, because my mom is prone to lifting.

With a gel brush, I brush on a layer of IBD builder gel clear and go around the cuticles with a rosewood stick and let that cure for 2 minutes.

With the same gel, I brushed on a thing layer on the free edge only(except the ringfinger) and put some neon-ish pink on it. With a clean brush I cleaned up the smile line, and let that cure for about 2 minutes.

On her ringfinger I put a layer of gel on the entire nail because I was planning on doing a two color fade, but my mom loved the way it looked with just the purple glitter. Anyways, I let that cure for about 2 minutes.

Then I brush on a thin layer of gel and then did the string technique to fill up and build up the nail, going around the cuticles with a rosewood stick, then letting it cure for 3 minutes.

(This process needs to be done, ONE finger at a time, or else your gel will run off the nail, leaving a complete mess, so when one hand is in the UV lamp, you can work on the other.)

With a nail wipe and nailpolish remover, I removed the tacky layer, and with a file I filed the sidewalls and the free edge.

In the nail of her ringfinger on her left hand, I drilled a hole with a Nail piercer, and then I put on some ORLY Glosser, which is a clear nail polish.

When that was completely dry, I put in the handmade Swarovski dangle.

Then some cuticle oil and some pictures and I'm done.

I hope you like this design.

X

Glitter Toes - Dragonfly

Summer is on it's way and what better way to celebrate that with sparkly toe nails!

As always I start clean and disinfect my tools and nails.

Prep has already been done prior to filming.

In the video I start off by dehydrating the nails with IBD prep, this also removes any excess dust.

Then I prime the natural nail and go ahead with my first coat of IBD builder gel in clear.

I let that cure for 2 minutes.

Then I brush on a thin layer of clear gel and start patting on neon pink glitter, for then to fade it with blue glitter, letting that cure for about 2 minutes.

When all 10 toenails are done, I go ahead with my last coat of gel, so I brush on a thin layer and then I smooth out the surface.

The nails don't need to be thick, just smooth.

And I let that cure for at least 2 minutes.

I removed tacky layer with non-acetone nailpolish remover and filed the sidewalls and free edge.

Then I did some stamping nail art on the big toes, put some clear nail polish on all 10 and let that dry.

When dry, I put on some cuticle oil to the cuticles and took some pictures.

I hope you like the design, and getting in the mood for summer! Joy!!

☆★Leopard print + dangle ☆★

I am completely obsessed with leopard print.

Clothes, scarfs, bathrobe, umbrella, socks, bracelet, arm pillows and nails!

Leopard print is hot, it's sexy, very feminine and yet classic.

Some might think it is ordinary, or even over the top.

But you know what? I do not care at all. I've gotten to a stage in my life where I stopped worrying about what other people think of me.

 I am who I am, I wear what I want.

And only now I dare to show it.

My close friend Karen wanted the same design on her nails like me, so let's go ahead and get started.

Perfect opportunity to film a video.

In the video I start off by sanitizing her nails and pushing back the cuticles.

With a coarse drill bit I took off her previous design  (she thought she'd make it easier for me and already removed her glaze 'n go and design. Thank you lol)

I forgot to press record after drilling away the previous design. But all I did was file with a 100/180 file (180 side), file away any bumps and removed the shine from the natural nail at the cuticles where the nail has grown out.

I removed dust with a kabuki and also with a nail wipe and IBD prep

Then I took NSI prep dx and dehydrated the natural nail.

On her index finger I placed a form and rebuild the nail with NSI clear powder (she broke one because a horse bit her nail, hooray for fake nails!)

Then I start forming the smile line with gold glitter(mixed with clear powder) and with a clean brush I clean up the smile line.

With NSI superbond I primed the natural nail only and starting filling up the nail with NSI attraction totally clear.

When all 10 nails are completely dry, I shaped and filed the nails, removed dust and let Karen wash her hands with warm water and soap to remove dust and excess chemicals.

With a stamper, stamping polish and an image plate, I did the leopard print.

Then I put on a UV activated topcoat : Glaze 'n go and let that cure for 3 minutes.

With a nail piercer I drilled a hole in her nail on her ring finger.

I put a dangle trough and closed it with pliers.

On her other ring finger, I made a 3D bow with NSI white powder and a no.2 acrylic brush.

With some cuticle oil, I massaged her cuticles and then took some pictures.

I hope you like this design.

x