Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Summer Sorbet


Summer is coming!
When I think of summer I think of sorbet (sherbet for some?)

Allright, lets get it cracking.

After 5 and a half weeks, it's time for a new design.



In the video I start off by sanitizing and pushing back the cuticles.
She has much cuticles growth so I cut that off.

With an electric drill and a coarse drill bit, I drilled off the old design.
Being careful because a coarse drill bit is very sharp.

After that I went over it with a 100/180 file (used 180) to smooth out any bumps and also to remove the shine from natural nails. And I also reshaped and shortened the nails.

With IBD prep and a lint free wipe, I took away any left over dust and that also dehydrates.
With IBD natural nail primer, I primed the nails.

With IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I brushed on a thin coat and let that cure for 2 minutes.
On the free edge, I brush on a thin coat of IBD builder gel clear and start patting on the neon yellow glitter.
Then I pat on hot pink and formed a smile line, letting that cure for 2 minutes.
Camera made the colors less vibrant, and dull looking.
(pictures are true color)

Then I brushed on a thin coat of IBD builder gel clear and started filling up the nail with strings of gel.
Letting that cure for 3 minutes to make sure everything is hardened.
It is important to do each nail separately (one nails, cure, other nail, cure,...)
Or else the gel will run off.

When all 10 are done, I removed the tacky layer with none acetone and a lint free wipe.
With the soft side of a 100/180 file I file the sidewalls and free edge.
I did a stamp on ringfinger and thumb.
With a final coat of gel (only on ringfinger and thumb) I seal in the design, letting that cure for 2-3 minutes. 
I normally would have used regular nailpolish to seal in the design, but this person comes in contact with erosive products from time to time.
Removed tacky layer, applied topcoat and cuticle oil.
Took some pictures and I'm done.




Sunday, May 27, 2012

How to do nails on a nailbiter


Why do people bite their nails?
Are they nervous?
Are they scared?
Is it a habit or does it taste good?

All I know is, it doesn't look nice.
Woman's nails are our business card and also shows how well we take care after ourselves.
We can enhance the way our nails look, even with a simple french look.

Whether you use tips, a form or on their own nails, that is up to you and your client.

I am going to do gel nails on her own natural nails, because she asked for it.
If I was to elongate her nails, I would have personally used her own skin as a form.
(her skin is slightly higher than her nails, so putting a form "underneath" her nail won't work, and a tip is too big)

As always start with sanitizing and prep


In the video, I sprayed her hands with IBD prep, this sanitizes her fingers.
I pushed back her cuticles and trimmed off the excess.
(nail biters are more likely to have a larger cuticle growth)

With a 100/180 grit file, I used the 180 side to take away the shine of the natural nail.

When all 10 are done, I removed the dust with a kabuki brush, sprayed her nails with IBD prep and wiped her nails with a lint free wipe. This removes any excess dust and oils and also dehydrates.

In the video I only showed one coat of NSI superbond primer, but I applied 2 coats to promote optimal bonding.

Then with IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I brushed on a thin coat.
Nail biters have super tiny nailbeds, so it is best not to use a large brush.
With a rosewood stick I went around the cuticle and sidewalls.
I let that cure for 2 minutes.

With a dotting tool and Jean Marin builder gel white, I start forming her free edge.
I only take a small amount of gel on the dotter and add more when it is needed.
We can't go too thick or else the nail will look unnatural when it is finished.
Don't worry if you touch her skin with gel, just clean it with a rosewood stick.
It is inevitable to make a mess.
Remember: The end result is what counts.

Keep the free edge thin, do not go over 1/3 of the nail or else it won't look good.
(1/3 white, 2/3pink)
With a clean gel brush I cleaned up the smile line and let that cure for 2 minutes.

After all 10 are done, I brushed on a thin layer of IBD builder gel clear with a clean gel brush.
Then with short strings of gel, I build up the nail to get an even and smooth surface.
I went around the cuticle and side walls with a rosewood stick and let that cure for 3 minutes.

When all 10 are done, I removed the tacky layer with non-acetone nailpolish remover and a lint free wipe.

With my file I clean up the sidewalls and free edge.
Removed dust and applied Orly Glosser
(high gloss nail polish)

With cuticle oil, I pampered the cuticles.

Took some pictures and finish!



Thursday, May 17, 2012

FAQs

Here are some of the most frequently asked question
Will be updated frequently when new questions are asked.

What products do you use?
IBD prep
NSI prep dx
NSI superbond primer
IBD builder gel clear, extreme blush gel, extreme white gel
NSI attraction liquid and powders
NSI Glaze 'n go
none acetone nailpolish remover 
Orly Glosser
Cuticle oil (any brand)

What tools do you use?
cuticle pusher
cuticle nipper
rosewood stick
100/180 file Bell'ure
Kabuki brush

What size brush do you use?
For gel a 5mm square gel brush from Oronails and ebay
For acrylic N.6 oval Kolinsky brush from NailCreation
For 3D N.4 or N.2 from  BornPrettyStore

Where do you get your gel/acrylic?
Gel: from my local nailstore Oronails
Acrylic: from Oronails

Glitter mixes : self made

What is that tape you put around your fingers and why?
That is 3M Coban 
I use it to protect my fingers and nails from scratches.
I get it at the pharmacist.

Did you go to school to learn how to do nails?
Yes I went to school, but no I did not learn anything new. 90 % I am self taught

Do you have a license?
Yes, I have 3
Manicure, nail styling and nail design

How long does gel needs to be cured?
Most of the time, it says on the container.
But for thin coats I cure for 2 minutes under a uv light
And the final coat I let cure for at least 3 minutes.
LED lamps need other curing times but do not work with all gel types. I have no experience with that.

Do I need to use primer/bonder?
If you don't NEED primer, you don't have to use it. But some people have experienced lifting if they don't use it. Same goes with bonder.

What UV topcoat do you use?
I use Glaze 'n Go from NSI

Where did you get your UV lamp?
I got it from ebay.

I get a lot of lifting, what am I doing wrong/ Do you have some advice?
I posted a huge post on this issue, feel free to check it out.

Why do you move your brush(gel) as if you are scribbling?/
What are the strings of gel for?
I do this to fill in the nail, to make the surface smooth and even and for adding strength and thickness.

What tool do you use to put on the white gel on the nail?
That's a dotting tool or an embossing tool.

Where did you get your drill bit?
I got it from BornPrettyStore and it is a coarse bit with a rounded top

Do you use tips or forms to extend the nails?
Depending on the shape and length of the natural nail.
If the nailbed is very short, I use forms because tips are too big and would take too much space from the nail bed.
Also if the natural curve is too curvy, I use forms because tips would not fit and lift.

Where are you from? Do you have a salon?
I am from Belgium, I do not have a salon.

What kind of UV lamp do you use? And why?
I use a 36 watt UV lamp (4x9 watt)
For a full set of gel nails, I recommend using a 36 watt lamp so that all the nails have cured equally and evenly.
9 watt lamps tend to not cure all the way on a full set (unless you leave it in the light for ... minutes, but that is crazy work.)
If you want a nail to be fully and completely cured, UV light must come from all possible sides,
from the top and from the sides(also from underneath, that's why most lamps have a mirrored bottom )
9 watt is okay for UV topcoat if you leave it under the lamp long enough.


Where did you get your image plates
The round ones I got from ebay and are by the brand "kand beauty"
The Konad ones(also round) are from a german website
The octagon ones are from BornPrettyStore


What program do you use to edit your video?
I use iMovie 11, the program came with my computer.


What kind of drill do you use and where did you get it?
Picture from google
This is the drill that I use and I got it from an ebay seller, but he closed his account, it is from the brand
"Super Nail Center"

Where do you get your glitters?
craft shops, hobby store, kids section, nail stores and this ebay seller

What camera do you use for pictures/filming?
I use a Panasonic Lumix DMC FZ150 for both filming and pictures.

Keep checking for updates...

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Gel on ToeNails


My mom bumped her toe pretty hard to something, and she lost a corner of her nail and it bled a bit. a week later when it was quite healed I decided to put some gel on because the weather is getting better.
So prior to the video I already prepped the nails (pushed back cuticles and took away the shine of the natural nails.



I sprayed her toes with IBD prep and went over it with a lint free wipe to get rid of any excess dust and oils.
With IBD natural nail primer, I primed her toenails.
With IBD builder gel clear and a gel brush, I brushed on the first layer of gel, and started to reconstruct a free edge for her big toe,  went around the cuticle with a rosewood stick and let that cure for 2 minutes.
The rest of the toes go just like normal, a thin coat of IBD builder clear and cure for 2 minutes.

With a dotting tool, I picked up some white gel and started for forming the smile line and free edge.
With a clean gel brush, I cleaned up the smile line and let that cure for 2 minutes.

For the last layer of gel, I brushed on a thin layer of IBD builder gel in clear, and filled the nail up with strings of gel, and in a circular motion, letting the gel on the brush touch the gel on the toe, I spread out the gel evenly.
On the toes, you don't need a thick layer.
I let that last layer cure for 3 minutes.

When all the toenails are done, I removed the sticky layer with nail polish remover and a lint free wipe, and filed the sidewalls and free edge.

I did some nail art on her big toe, it's a rose done with stamping polish, an image plate and a stamper.

Then I applied a coat of UV nail polish (not cured in the lamp) to prevent the nails from yellowing.

Last but not least, I applied some cuticle oil and rubbed that in, took some pictures and done .




Sunday, May 6, 2012

Nicki Minaj Nail Art






My lovely mom never really went all out with her nails, but lately I can convince her to go a bit more wild and colorful.
And I sure do take advantage of that.



In the videoI start off by pushing back her cuticles for then to remove her old design with a drill and file. I also took away the shine of the natural nail.
When all 10 are done, I dust off the nails and hands. With a nailwipe and IBD prep I dehydrate the nails and that also removes any excess dust and oils.

Then I primed the nails with NSI superbond, because my mom is prone to lifting.
With a gel brush, I brush on a layer of IBD builder gel clear and go around the cuticles with a rosewood stick and let that cure for 2 minutes.

With the same gel, I brushed on a thing layer on the free edge only(except the ringfinger) and put some neon-ish pink on it. With a clean brush I cleaned up the smile line, and let that cure for about 2 minutes.

On her ringfinger I put a layer of gel on the entire nail because I was planning on doing a two color fade, but my mom loved the way it looked with just the purple glitter. Anyways, I let that cure for about 2 minutes.

Then I brush on a thin layer of gel and then did the string technique to fill up and build up the nail, going around the cuticles with a rosewood stick, then letting it cure for 3 minutes.
(This process needs to be done, ONE finger at a time, or else your gel will run off the nail, leaving a complete mess, so when one hand is in the UV lamp, you can work on the other.)

With a nail wipe and nailpolish remover, I removed the tacky layer, and with a file I filed the sidewalls and the free edge.

In the nail of her ringfinger on her left hand, I drilled a hole with a Nail piercer, and then I put on some ORLY Glosser, which is a clear nail polish.
When that was completely dry, I put in the handmade Swarovski dangle.
Then some cuticle oil and some pictures and I'm done.

I hope you like this design.
X







Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Glitter Toes - Dragonfly



Summer is on it's way and what better way to celebrate that with sparkly toe nails!

As always I start clean and disinfect my tools and nails.
Prep has already been done prior to filming.



In the video I start off by dehydrating the nails with IBD prep, this also removes any excess dust.
Then I prime the natural nail and go ahead with my first coat of IBD builder gel in clear.
I let that cure for 2 minutes.

Then I brush on a thin layer of clear gel and start patting on neon pink glitter, for then to fade it with blue glitter, letting that cure for about 2 minutes.

When all 10 toenails are done, I go ahead with my last coat of gel, so I brush on a thin layer and then I smooth out the surface.
The nails don't need to be thick, just smooth.
And I let that cure for at least 2 minutes.
I removed tacky layer with non-acetone nailpolish remover and filed the sidewalls and free edge.

Then I did some stamping nail art on the big toes, put some clear nail polish on all 10 and let that dry.
When dry, I put on some cuticle oil to the cuticles and took some pictures.

I hope you like the design, and getting in the mood for summer! Joy!!